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[49] Navajo women further adapted the European designs, incorporating their own sense of beauty, "creating hzh." [50] Paper sewing patterns for women to sew their own dresses started to be readily available in the 1860s, when the Butterick Publishing Company began to promote them

Just as she did 20 years earlier with hip-hop, she became an architect of neo-soul, the subgenre that focused on feeling and musicianship in an era of rampant commercialism

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